I have been composting mainly using the composter from dailydump, but I found that I was running out of space. So, I thought about building my own. I used the plastic paint containers for building the composter and the following link has some pictures with explanation on how to do it..
You could possibly replace the plastic paint containers with clay pots of the type that are used to hold water.
i am a beginner in this field..to clear few of my doubts i wud like to ask u ..
1. organic waste means everything decomposable from kitchen fruit veggie peels, boiled tea after straining and dried leaves from our garden...is it?
2. we have to keep adding the organic matter. how frequently we need to water and do we need to cover it tightly then.
3. does leachate means water from upper pot.
4. how long does it take to prepare the compost.
thanks for all ur valuable guidance ...
I have a similar setup, took me some time to get this far. A medium size blue plastic drum with many holes on top for air circulation and few at the botton for drainage. This is for composting. I also add cowdung slurry at various stages. This will help in reducing the bad smell when decaying. The smell of dung will last for a day or two only.
After the content is well decayed (say 45 days), I move a portion of this to a 25 ltr paint bucket (I had purchased from city market). The bucket has a nozzle at the bottom for drainage. To this I add earthworms and the worms do the rest for me. I sprinkle a small glass of water every 3 days, this keeps the compost wet preventing ants and other insects from moving in. Ants can harm the worms as well. The sprinkled water drains out of the nozzle slowly. After 15 days of adding worms, the water that drains out is very valuable(vermiwash) and pls don't dispose this. This can be diluted and sprayed on the plants.
During the early stages of composting, a lot of heat is generated. The worms will die if added during this phase. So I prefer to add worms after 45 days of composting. Also there needs to be good air circulation after adding worms.
With my previous failure-experience in vermicomposting, I now follow the method used by STS. Except that for the vermicompost container, I use large wide earth pot. It helps maintain the temperature and moisture content.
In addition to the heat produced by decomposition there is a possibility that the bin might turn too acidic if the propotion of carbon is not maintained. This will lead to all sorts of problems which will result in exodus of earthworms.
The problem with fully decayed stuff is that this may not provide enough nutrients for the worms and the resulting compost. The nitrogen would have escaped by then. I use a week's old organic matter for feeding worms.
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